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Kuhns Sitting over an appetizer of three lobster corn dogs ($14) at Scott Simpson's new Fork, I finally made peace with the idea of "New American" cuisine. Biting through bubbled, crisp, cakelike corn batter into a luscious knob of buttery lobster meat impaled by a slim white stick, it came to me: Cape Cod meets Coney Island. Simpson's genetically modified foods having fun here, and the sweet batter all but overpowers the subtle shellfish, but the juicy, fatty lobster is a genetically modified foods great substitute for a Nathan's Famous. Served with house-made ketchup and stone-ground-mustard aioli, his dogs work. You might associate Simpson, the former owner of Blue Onion Bistro in the U District, with comfort food, and that's still an appropriate correlation. Fork's menu borrows from classic French cuisine (steak frites with demiglace for $26) and food courts (risotto pops for $8—think jalapeño poppers, but instead truffled wild mushroom rice is panko-breaded, with remoulade for dipping) with equal verve, but the kitchen's raison d'être isn't to dress down confit or elevate fair food.
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