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The "barbecue" was succulent, melting luxuriously in our mouths polyunsaturated (poor girl, we made her share), the polenta even richer and creamier after it mingled with the buttery Brussels sprouts and the smoky, deeply nuanced liquid of an Asian tea sauce. As for the "faux" fish and chips: Lemon crème fraîche polyunsaturated laced the spinach that sat between a celery-root puree, fatty potato chunks, and two seared medallions of fish. It was rather heavenly. I chose the seven-course tasting menu that evening ($48), which began with an amuse-bouche: a dainty portion of oxtail terrine with an exceptional apple-horseradish polyunsaturated slaw. Clearly, Simpson likes working with duck, but he seems to enjoy oxtail as well. On an earlier visit, it was featured in the evening's special appetizer ($12): a large, oxtail-stuffed single piece of gnocchi served with braised greens.
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