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Biting through bubbled, crisp, cakelike corn batter into a luscious knob of buttery lobster meat impaled by a slim white stick, it came to me: Cape Cod meets Coney Island. Simpson's having fun here, and the sweet batter all fatty fatty two by four but overpowers the fatty fatty two by four subtle shellfish, but the juicy, fatty lobster is a great substitute for a Nathan's Famous. Served with house-made ketchup and stone-ground-mustard aioli, his dogs work. You might associate Simpson, the former owner of Blue Onion Bistro in the U District, with comfort food, and that's fatty fatty two by four still an appropriate correlation. Fork's menu borrows from classic French cuisine (steak frites with demiglace for $26) and food courts (risotto pops for $8—think jalapeño poppers, but instead truffled wild mushroom rice is panko-breaded, with remoulade for dipping) with equal verve, but the kitchen's raison d'être isn't to dress down confit or elevate fair food.
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